Shieldaig & Applecross
This was another great camp site Tubbs found just above the small village of Shieldaig and overlooking Loch Torridon. When we checked in, we were met by the owner Ruaridh of Shieldaig Camping & Cabins who was super helpful and we highly recommend this site if you’re stopping for a night or more; we’ll be back for sure! The views are 🤩 and the site is a short stroll from the tiny village and pub! Any way, he happened to ask Tubbs where we were from, and he said he knew a couple of guys from Guernsey, Andy Cameron and Sam De Kooker, did he know them. Yes, he did! Small world. It transpires that Andy has family from Shieldaig.
Unfortunately, that same day the weather did the inevitable and took a turn for the worst late afternoon and so we just chilled in the van and ignored the pish weather outside. We have to say, the van is truly proving itself this week and although the wind was battering the side and rocking us like a boat, we felt cosy and safe inside.
So as with all Scottish weather (very changeable) we woke to a beautiful morning after that very stormy night! Very excited as today we were going to travel to Applecross but via the Bealach na Ba - a narrow and winding single track road through the mountains in Wester Ross. We thought we’d drive up and over into Applecross which gets the challenging piece out of the way first.
Before we drove the Bealach na Ba, we read all sorts of warnings about the size of vehicle that should or shouldn’t go up there and once we started to drive up the road we could see why. If you’ve rented a motorhome and not used to driving a big wagon, this road is a definite no go. Take the coastal route. However, Tubbs is used to driving the truck, so was happy to take Han up there.
We took our time and were always looking for vehicles coming in the opposite direction to make sure we found a possible passing place that would accommodate the size of the truck but leave enough space to allow the other vehicle past - squeeze was the optimum word here for 80% of the passing places. Some of these you’d be lucky to get a mini into and you’ve got to get another wagon past you, with possible rocks next to you or you’re sat tight to the edge of the Glen and the abyss below! All said and done, Tubbs says it was straight forward enough but you do need to take your time and be looking ahead always. It was absolutely stunning scenery, yeah some tricky terrain, but well worth the effort and Tubbs says he’d do it again!
By the time we got down from the mountain it was lunchtime and that meant the Applecross Inn was in our sights. We had a table not far from the log burner which was nicely roaring inside, so we decided to treat ourselves to steak and chips for lunch! No beer though unless you sat outside - that was a tough call in 6c, 50 mph winds and then it starts raining!
After lunch we decided to drive the coastal route north back to Shieldaig which wasn’t as stunning but still a joy to drive. Once we got to Shieldaig we stopped outside the local pub and had a pint. The rain had cleared and it was an orange sky with no wind, just a crisp evening.
Looking at the weather forecast it was predicted that we were in for a fairly big storm. We had hoped to head over to Isle of Skye but decided to stay at the Shieldaig site an extra night to regroup and decide our next move. We definitely made the right call as the following day it was 61 mph winds (gusting 70 to 80+ in places ) so we just battened down the hatches and stayed in the van all day, only venturing out when the pups were desperate 🐶🚽
Tonight we heard the Prime Minister announce England will be going into lockdown from next Thursday and although we are still in Scotland, this will affect the next part of our trip down through England and potentially getting home for Christmas. We have had to make a decision, one not made lightly, but after much thought we have decided to cut our trip short and head home to Guernsey before the lockdown comes into force. It is the uncertainty of how long the lockdown will last in England with noises that it won’t end on December 2nd, and it’s also not clear how this will affect our travel plans. With this uncertainty, and bearing in mind Christmas is on the horizon and we want to spend it with family and friends, we need the certainty of getting home. So that’s the plan, time to head home and plan for the next trip……
Keep safe!
Lots of love T&TA 🤗❤️
Shieldaig Camping & Cabins 🌍 www.shieldaigcampingandcabins.co.uk
